West & East Macdonnell Ranges

After making it into Boulia from being chased out of the Diamontina NP by rains and then learning that all dirt roads in Western Queensland were closed we bunkered down in the Boulia Caravan Park for the evening and listed to the rain continue to fall. We later learnt that they had a total of 18mm of rain which in these area’s is sufficient to cause flooding.

Wednesday morning first stop was the local service station to refuel before departing Boulia for Mt Isa – now that was an interesting exercise requiring 4WD to be engaged just to get to the diesel bowser.
While the road from Boulia to Mt Isa is sealed in its entirety it’s still only one lane and the big worry was meeting an oncoming road train which would require us to get off the road, something that definitely wasn’t a thrilling proposition however we were fortunate that the only road train we came across was when we stopped at Dajarra for a coffee break. Fortunately the trip to Isa was quite uneventful with nearly all oncoming vehicles ceding right of way which made life so much easier.

Eventually arriving Mt Isa we were guided to the Caravan Park compliments of our trusty GPS suitably named “Fifi Box”; pretty appropriate name huh considering that the real life Fifi Box (an Australian TV personality) is blonde and somewhat accident prone just like GPS’s. And again we were fortunate that we had the foresight to pre-book our accommodation for it transpired that it was a case of “No Vacancies” throughout Mt Isa.

Settling into our accommodation, the next three days was spent restocking the larder, trying to restore some resemblance of cleanliness to the interior of the van, plus dining out (something we have adapted to quite well in our retired life).

After three nights in Mt Isa we were glad to be on our way, the main reason being that the Mt Isa Caravan Park was, to say the least a little “tired and weary”. Additionally it also backed onto a housing estate hence we were entertained on all three nights into the early hours of the morning with loud music, yelling, fighting, etc.

The twelve hundred kilometer drive to Alice Springs was fairly uneventful. Our first night was considerably more peaceful than the preceding nights and was spent hidden behind an abandoned Telstra micro link tower in the middle of the Barkley Tablelands; it also gave us views for literally hundred of square kilometers. Sunset that night was quite spectacular with the colours of the desert highlighted by the setting sun.

Following a peaceful night’s sleep next stop was a brief one at Tennant Creek to refuel. Travelling down the highway after our refueling stop we were deep in conversation regarding our next stop, whether it was to be either Whistle Duck Creek in the Davenport National Park for several days (a location that looked very inviting) or a brief overnight stay at the “Devil’s Marbles” rest area and then into Alice Springs the following morning.

The further south we travelled the more apparent it was becoming that there had been a signification amount of rain in the region and that our plan for Whistle Duck Creek may be in jeopody. Arriving at the turn off, we took one look at the road which could only be described as a quagmire and immediately cancelled our plans for Whistle Duck Creek. Consequently our second night was spent at the “Devil’s Marbles” about one hundred kilometers south of Tenant Creek together with heavens knows how many other travelers.
We eventually arrived Alice Springs early afternoon after a very early departure with the first chore after settling into our accommodation being to collect our mail plus purchase a few essentials.

Owing to the extraordinary amount of rain the desert regions of Australia have been receiving this year, it was time to review our travel plans as most desert roads we had planned on using were now impassable

After deciding to extend our stay in the caravan park for another night, next morning we headed out to the Aboriginal settlement of Hermansburg, once a Lutheran Mission but now reknown as the home to the late brilliant Aboriginal artist Albert Namatjira. While the brochures painted a rosy picture of the settlement unfortunately the realities is somewhat different with most buildings in dire need of attention. After viewing various portraits and paintings by Namatjira plus the historical precinct, our next intended stop was nearby Palm Valley however that road was closed due to the recent rains.

Regardless of the preceding, the scenery on the drive out to Hermansburg was absolutely beautiful, the colours were brilliant, flowers were everywhere, and all as a result of one of the wettest winters in over twenty years.

Even the Todd River that goes through the heart of Alice Springs was flowing, that in itself being quite a rare occurrence in this part of the world.

Wednesday morning we left Alice Springs to explore the West Macdonnell Ranges deciding to base ourselves at Redbank Gorge, the further most point from Alice where we would camp. One hundred fifty kilometers later plus forging several swollen rivers (with cars queued on both sides trying to decided whether they would or wouldn’t) we eventually arrived at the camping area and were pleasantly surprised to find only one other camper in the two available camping areas.

On the trip out to Redbank Gorge we made several stops including the Ochre pits which are quite unique in that of the dozen or so recognized ochre pits in Australia, this is the only one that contains all three base colours utilized by the Aboriginal people in their body arts for corroborees.

And again the scenery while traveling parallel to the ranges was absolutely beautiful; this area is in our view one of the most beautiful inland regions of Australia.

After getting ourselves organized, it was off to explore the Redbank Gorge only to discover it was in flood. Nevertheless being intrepid hikers that we are, we set out on the walking trail in the mistaken belief that we would still be able to make it to the gorge proper. A kilometer or so later on after clambering over rocks, fallen trees, walking through mud and long grass, we eventually met another couple returning to the car park who advised us that it just wasn’t possible to reach the gorge.

With that futile exercise done with we climbed a nearby hill offering views up the gorge plus the surrounding country side.

Thursday morning was particularly cold hence it was a great excuse not to venture out too early. Eventually getting motivated around 10.30 we headed west from Redbank Gorge to Tyler’s Pass lookout from where we could view Gosse Bluff. Gosse Bluff is the remnants of an ancient crater created by the impact of a comet but has now been claimed as a sacred site by the women of the local Aboriginal people. After reading the paraphernalia regarding the bluff (complete with road maps) we decided a visit to the crater proper; one hour later after traversing various mud covered tracks we gave up.

Next on our itinerary was Ormiston Gorge. Back tracking we arrived at the gorge to find the Finke River in full flow, something that doesn’t happen too often let alone even having water in it; incidentally the Finke is regarded as the oldest existing river in the world having been dated at over 100 million years old. Since exploring the gorge was out of the question we scaled a very civilized path to the lookout.

From Ormiston it was back to camp via Glen Helen Gorge, this gorge having also been created by the Finke River carving its way through the ranges. While we would have liked to explore the gorge (as with Ormiston) it was just not possible due to the swollen water courses.

Friday morning after another late start it was time to depart the West Macdonnell’s and head over to the East Macdonnell’s via Alice Springs stopping on the way to view the Ellery Creek Bighole.

After refueling in Alice Springs it was out to Trephina Gorge to find a camping spot. While the drive out to Trephina is still quite scenic, it isn’t anywhere as spectacular as the West Macdonnell’s.
Following a sleep-in we donned our hiking boots and attacked the rim walk that skirted the western side of Trephina providing lovely views of the gorge and its surrounds. Unfortunately when we descended back down into the gorge at the opposite end of the walk, the only return route required us to wade across the creek - twice; geeze the water was cold.

Next on the agenda was a drive out to Arltunga Historic Reserve, thirty kilometers away and on a dirt road that was supposedly suitable for the family car. We eventually got back to the van around 1600 after possibly traversing one of the most bone jarring corrugated roads we have ever been on requiring us to engage 4WD on several occasions. The corrugation was that bad that our UHF aerial eventually snapped off due to the constant vibration. Don’t think I would want to take Mita’s car on that road.

Sunday we return to Alice Springs where we remained for several days restocking, cleaning, washing, plus paying a visit to the Alice Springs Desert Park, something that we would recommend to all.

Wednesday morning we will be departing Alice and heading south along the Old South Road that roughly follows the old "Ghan" railway line.   We hope to visit Chambers Pillar, Dalhousie Springs, and then continue south along the Oodnadatta track with our next destination being Leigh Creek in South Australia.