Ningaloo

After four days and five nights camped on the shores of Shark Bay we continued north to Carnarvon where we spend the next two days doing the usual – restocking, replenishing our water supplies, utilized their laundry facilities, doing some sight seeing, plus paying a visit to the local seafood processing plant purchasing several kilo’s of king prawn meat at what we felt was a very reasonable price – that night it was surf and turf.


We departed Carnarvon Thursday morning making our way to Ningaloo Sheep Station with expectations of camping within metres of the beach. While our destination was only two hundred eighty kilometres away however the last portion of the drive into the property was interesting to say the least. Turning off the highway onto a dirt road we were met with a series of signs, the first advising that the road ahead was 4WD only and corrugated; the next was to advise that you were passing through an Air Force Air Weapons Range hence no camping was allowed – pretty damned obvious I would have thought.

As for the warning about corrugation, well it was entirely accurate.

Deflating our tyres to dampen the effects of the advised corrugation, we bumped, shook, and rattled for the next thirty four kilometres eventually arriving at the Ningaloo Homestead one and a half hours later.

Paying our camping fees $40 per week, collecting the gate key to the applicable camping area and then much to our horror, being advised we had another twenty kilometres to drive we continued on our way to the camping area.


Some two and half hours after turning off the highway we arrived at our designated camping area located within metres of the edge of North Lefroy Bay. While not fitting the definition of a lagoon, North Lefroy Bay is in essence a huge lagoon bordered on three sides by a pronounced bay and on the fourth side by Ningaloo Reef It’s not particularly deep, probably only five or six metres deep at best but the end result is that it provides a very sheltered area idea for fishing, snorkelling, swimming, and a range of other aquatic activities.

After setting up camp we went for a short stroll to admire the coastal views however we didn’t get to far as we were hijacked by several couples having “happy hour” and a good laugh at our expense; apparently it’s quite a conversation piece about people’s reactions to the road conditions when they first arrive.


Following a great nights sleep, our first full day was very relaxing being spent taking a stroll along the beach to a distant headland allowing us to take in the views across the lagoon, attempting to go for a swim only to decide that the water wasn’t quite warm enough, climbing sand hills in search of phone reception (only to be advised later where the best location was to obtain minimal reception), or relaxing under the awning reading our e-books. That evening we were invaded by several nearby campers who’d decided ours was as good a location as any for “happy hour”.

Morning dawned and what a spectacular sight it was with fog rolling in over the ranges and down onto the coastal flats.

The first task of the day was to locate phone reception so we could wish our grandson a happy birthday. Having fulfilled our family commitments and following a light breakfast the “Great White Hunter” decided to try his luck at fishing; fortunately for the fish he’s maintained his abysmal record although the fish were probably more than grateful for the free feed. Following the return of the hapless hunter we went for a drive to some of the other camping areas and were totally amazed at the extent some campers have gone to make life pleasant. With some campers having permanent annual bookings for periods of four months or more I suppose you can understand them installing solar panels designed to track the sun, wind generators, rain catchment devices to supplement their water supplies, spears sunk to obtain subterranean water, and the list goes on.

And that evening we sat with a glass of wine and watched another spectacular sunset.

With the arrival of another day, disaster struck – the on-board toilet decided to fail during the night. With Leigh muttering obscenities while dismantling the damned thing (he was calling it lots of other things) he eventually located the fault, a broken lug. Having ascertained the fault it was down the road to the local sand dune making a call to Melbourne, ordering the part and having it sent express post to Exmouth; we were assured it would take three days to arrive.


With that distasteful job out of the way and following a quick shower (no way was he coming near me) we went for a drive around to the next bay and on out to Winderabandi Point – what a great location. Returning to camp, it was time for another beach walk, followed by a swim as the waters seemed not to be as cold when we previously dunked our toes in.


On our fifth day we decided to take a drive to Yardie Creek twenty kilometres north and located on the southern boundary of the Cape Range National Park however as Yardie Creek is tidal it was imperative we timed our arrival with the outgoing time so as to allow access to the Yardie Gorge car park. After another bone jarring drive across more heavily corrugated roads we crossed the now dry creek bed, parked in the near deserted car park and hiked up the Yardie Gorge to enjoy the scenery.

One hour later after enjoying the scenery we returned to the car park that was by now full of tourist buses and private vehicles.


Crossing back over the creek it was a leisurely drive back to Ningaloo investigating en-route numerous bays and coves, including this gem that’s obviously very popular with the boating community.

Having returned from Yardie Creek and with Mita making various comments about washing her hair, it was down to the local bore with a variety of containers to accommodate her needs. After scattering the herds of goats and sheep away from the water troughs including the odd Emu and Kangaroo Leigh busied himself filling the containers from the water tank eventually returning to camp where after a period of time, Mita was a very contented camper.

Wednesday arrived and following breakfast it down to our favourite spot for phone reception where much to our glee we were advised that there was a parcel waiting for us at the Exmouth Post Office. With that news we booked ourselves into a caravan park.

The rest of Wednesday was spent relaxing, swimming, and packing for an early departure Thursday morning back to Exmouth, and preparing shopping lists.