Eyre Peninsula

          Leaving home on Friday 27^th February we made a bee line to Melbourne as we were to attend a wedding the following Friday.   With the exception of a failed gas regulator with Leigh replacing not only the regulator but also the hose as an added precaution the trip down was incident free eventually arriving in Melbourne as planned on Thursday.

          Having attended the wedding at Saint Paul’s Cathedral located in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD, and over the next few days caught up with friends, shopped at the famous Victoria Markets, we left Melbourne for the Eyre Peninsula.   The intention was to meander over to Wallaroo on the York Peninsula where we would board a vehicular ferry across to Cowell on the Eyre Peninsula, once on the Eyre Peninsula we would go inland visiting areas previously bypassed until we reached Ceduna, from there follow the coastline back south taking in the magnificent coastal scenery.

          Our first night was at Lake Batyo Catyo thirty five kilometres from St Arnaud.   What attracted us to this location was a brochure advertising swimming, boating, fishing and other water activities; yeah well it was as bone dry and obviously had been that way for some years.   As a result the amenities block for campers was securely padlocked while the public conveniences were unusable being full of “tumbleweed” plus an assortment of debris with the distinct possibility the odd reptile may be slithering around.

          We did however have a peaceful night’s sleep.

          From our “oasis” we continued west with Mita occasionally mentioning that maybe I should contact the ferry operator at Wallaroo to check on ferry schedules, charges, are bookings required, plus other details we should be aware of.   Giving her the look of “you doubt me?” I eventually succumbed.

          So the ferry is no longer in service as it was purchased by an overseas conglomerate and is now being used to transport workers and equipment to a major project in the Middle East.

          Crossing into South Australia from Victoria across the previously disputed border, a border that is still a contentious issue with many a local we went in search of a peaceful overnight stop where we could discuss a new route and what a better place than a peaceful rest area halfway between Keith and Tailem Bend; turned out to be near the main Adelaide to Melbourne rail line.

          Things were definitely not going my way.

          As a footnote, the original Victorian/South Australian border was intended to be the 141^st Meridian East however owing to a surveying error, the border markers were placed 3.6 km west of the meridian.   After numerous court battles Victoria finally succeeded in having the erroneously surveyed border declared legal 1913.

          Following a less than peaceful night’s sleep we changed direction heading towards Mannum where we’d cross the Murray River on a vehicular punt (that hopefully hadn’t been purchased by some Middle Eastern concern).   The drive through the countryside was pleasant and scenic, it’s just a pity there weren’t any pullovers allowing pesky tourists the opportunity to enjoy the vistas.

          Eventually arriving at Mannum we crossed the river where after disembarking on the edge of the townships decided it was as good a time as any for a coffee and to explore the township.

          Prior to boarding the ferry we noted an abundance of camping areas along the river foreshore opposite the township with camping costing in the order of $10 per day however we believe there is a strict no camping policy on the township side of the river.

          Mannum itself is quite an old town with numerous businesses still occupying the original shops, flower mills, warehouses while most pubs have retained their original porticos.   The pub where we decided to have coffee was quite an “eye opener” where after entering through the original stone building it opened up into an ultra-modern establishment with unobstructed views across the River Murray.

          Leaving Mannum after refuelling we continued meandering through the countryside whilst at the same time searching for a prospective overnight campsite however with no suitable opportunities presenting themselves we ended up staying overnight in a caravan park at Kapunda.

          Wednesday morning we left Kapunda making our way to Clare to meet up with friends who would be transiting the town at the same time.   Of course being in the middle of an internationally known wine district we just had to visit one of our favourite boutique vineyards purchasing some of their delightful Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlot’s.

          Having caught up with our friends, exchanged information, plus visited a local supermarket we then headed for a camping area at Hancock’s Lookout in the Southern Flinders Ranges that purportedly offered outstanding views across Spencer Gulf towards Eyre Peninsula.   As the road to the lookout involved seven kilometres of corrugated dirt track including a significant climb we were confident the conditions would deter most.

          Arriving at Hancock’s we definitely weren’t disappointed, the views were outstanding, the sunset sensational, all of which we shared with four other campers.

          From Hancock’s Lookout we re-joined the main arterial road descending to the coastal plains via Horricks Pass, a short time later arriving in Port Augusta stopping briefly to refuel and more importantly replenish our water tanks as the supply of palatable water may become an issue.

          Next destination was Cleve in the heart of the Eyre Peninsula.   Travelling via Iron Knob with its massive iron ore mine we eventually arrived at Kimba, did a quick drive around the town and then turned south towards Cleve passing kilometre after kilometre of grain fields plus some very spectacular scenery, and once again nowhere to pull over to enjoy the views.   Arriving Cleve mid-afternoon we parked in the local showgrounds with several other vans including another Bushtracker.

          It wasn’t long when the owners of the other BT who upon their return wandered over and introduced themselves; turned out that Leigh and Ian had exchanged information on quite a few occasions on the club website.   Ian and his wife Sally in their younger days had been school teachers at Cleve and were there to attend a school reunion.   Needless to say when we departed the following day we were in possession of some very useful information compliments of Ian and Sally.

          Next on our itinerary was Pildappa Rock near Minnipa that purportedly rivals Wave Rock in Western Australia; if it does or doesn’t we have absolutely no idea haven’t not visited Wave Rock.   Travelling via Lock and then re-joining the Eyre Highway at Kyancutta we eventually arrived at Minnipa, turned off the highway and navigated our way fifteen kilometres inland on dirt roads to this granite insilberg.   Needless to say it was quite a sight.

          After parking in the rather ordinary camping area we scaled the monolith taking in the views of the immediate area plus westward towards the distant Gawler Ranges.

          Returning to the camping area we were somewhat annoyed that an old converted bus that was now a motorhome camped within metres of us.   That wasn’t too bad however the fact there were three yapping dogs accompanying the owners didn’t impress us at all.   With that we moved.

          Our only mistake albeit having climbed the rock was we should have walked the perimeter as we would have discovered several other vacant camping areas far superior to there we spent the night.

          Leaving Pildappa Rock next stop was Ceduna to refuel and purchase a few essentials before commencing our southerly trek along the coastline visiting various conservation parks plus other points of interest.

          Our first overnight on the coastal regions of Eyre Peninsula was Wittelbee Conservation Park fifteen kilometres South of Ceduna and what a pretty little park.   Entering the park we soon realized there were only five campsites available in the entire park and of those only two or three that could accommodate us.   Regardless we made do squeezing into a delightful spot with unobstructed views across the bay that probably wasn’t intended for use by thumping big off-roader.

          Following a peaceful night’s sleep we set out for Point Brown, south of Smoky Bay.   Stopping briefly at Smoky Bay we were “gob smacked” by the number of ultra-modern “weekenders” plus a very modern caravan park that was brimming.   Obviously this neck of the woods is a fisherman’s paradise.

          From Smoky Bay it was out to Point Brown on twenty five kilometres of dirt road, the condition of which overall wasn’t too bad.   Arriving at our destination we soon realized that to access the various camping areas could be risky as most tracks would present traction issues however to satisfy ourselves we unhitched on an old disused track, engaged 4WD and went investigating.   There were indeed some idyllic camping spots and if we’d been in company with another 4WD would have attempted to access them.

          After a somewhat blustery night with intense hot winds buffeting us from the north until about 4am when suddenly a cool southerly change arrived from the opposite direction with the same degree of intensity we left Point Brown suffering a bad case of sleep deprivation returning briefly to Smoky Bay.

          Continuing South from Smoky Bay we decided to stay at Perlubie Beach, a location we had visited many years earlier remembering it as an unspoilt location perched on the edge of an escarpment overlooking a wide bay with pristine beach offering kilometres of walking.

          Arriving at Perlubie Beach we were somewhat surprised by the sight of a rather substantial housing development that now occupied the site where we used to camp.   Not to be deterred we followed newly erected signage directing us to a camping area and were dismayed at what greeted us, to be blunt it was pandemonium.   Perlubie Beach as obviously become a Mecca for the fishing fraternity with motor homes and caravans of all shapes and sizes (complete with boat trailers) crowded into a camping area not intended for the numbers occupying the area, and those who couldn’t find a space in the designated camping area simply camped on the beach.   As for the beach shelters intended for use by locals for picnics they were being utilized as storage areas for boats and trailers.

          We later learnt there’s a concerted effort by local residence to have the area closed.

          Leaving Perlubie Beach we arrive at nearby Streaky Bay where after depositing Mita at the supermarket I went in search of the dump point.   With the “unmentionable” out of the way and Mita having completed her shopping we retired to a lovely foreshore park for a coffee.   No sooner had we parked when we were engaged in conversation by some residents opposite.   One thing led to another and before you knew it we had exchanged information with the husband who pilots a professional fishing boat presenting Leigh with fresh fish plus providing us with information on some good camping spots.

          Armed with local knowledge we left Streaky Bay tackling the tourist drive out to Cape Bauer via Whistling Rocks prior to going in search of the Tractor Beach camping area on the Point Westall Loop Road as recommended by the couple we had met earlier.   The camping area turned out to be idyllically located within metres of the beach and next to “The Granites”, a nearby headland.

          And what a beautiful spot it was with the added attraction of there being only five sites available hence overcrowding wasn’t going to be an issue.

          However a word of warning as we found out after getting ourselves into quite a predicament, it isn’t suitable for larger vans so if you intend camping there, walk in first.

          We stayed at Tractor Beach for three nights doing day trips from there.   On the second day we explored Loop Road visiting Point Westall, Fisherman’s Paradise (a settlement of very modern “weekenders” in the middle of nowhere), Yanerbie Beach plus other points of interest.

          Day three was out to Sceale Bay, another fishing village that also has a unique public toilet - yep you read correctly.   Built from stone and utilizing the latest environmental technologies it’s erected on a rise overlooking the bay and so you can appreciate the views a bay window was strategically installed so while you’re utilizing the pedestal you can enjoy the vista – different.

          From Sceale Bay we continued to the Point Labatt Conservation Park and Australian Sea Lion Sanctuary.   Australian Sea Lions are one of the most endangered marine mammals on the planet due to their unique breeding cycle.   While Sea Lions breed annually the Australian Sea Lion only breeds every eighteen months hence when you include natural attrition through a variety of factors plus human intervention you begin to understand the importance of Point Labatt which incidentally is also relatively safe haven from its principal natural predators, the Great White Shark.

          Returning to our camping area, surprise of surprises Leigh decided we should attempt to scale the nearby peak overlooking “The Granites” knowing full well there were no defined tracks.   A good two hours later after reaching the summit we returned to the van, disrobed from our sweat impregnated clothing and jumped under a cool shower.   We slept well that night

          Departing Tractor Beach Sunday morning next spot was Port Kenny having booked into a caravan park of unknown quality as by now we’d all but run out of clothing and water.   Arriving at Port Kenny it didn’t take long to realise it definitely wasn’t 5 Star however as all other van parks in the region were fully booked our options were limited.

            We spent two nights at Port Kenny with the initial day dedicated to attending to various chores.   With tasks completed day two we visited nearby Venus Bay, Talia Caves, several beaches plus other points of interest in the area; unfortunately we couldn’t locate Mount Miserable much to Leigh’s delight.   Dinner that night was at the local pub and what a meal it was; we both ordered Porterhouse Steaks, not only were they huge they were cooked to perfection.

             Having replenished our water tanks with less than palatable bore water (thanks heavens our potable water tank was full with quality water) we headed to Walkers beach near Elliston, a town we’d transited many years prior but for some unknown reason didn’t bother stopping at.   Our decision to camp at Walkers Beach resulted from a recommendation and we weren’t disappointed.   The camping area is snuggled in amongst treed sand dunes on a small peninsula with kilometres of beach on one side and relatively flat rock ledges ideal for fishing on the other.

             But be warned, camping sites are limited.

            After settling in, it was into the local information office followed by a visit to the one and only general store to collect a few essentials.   Elliston is located on a small protected bay with ocean access making it a favourite for fishermen.   While the township is relatively small comprising only a pub, a general shop, a café, a fishing and tackle shop, a post office plus a part time chemist, there is more than adequate tourism to support two large caravan parks plus an array of holiday rentals.   All in all, a pretty little town with some lovely scenic coastal drives.

          Returning from Elliston we noted another Bushtracker parked nearby; turned out they had been advised we were in the area and to keep an eye out for us.   Happy hour that evening was a jovial affair with a lovely couple.

          Leaving Walkers Beach Thursday morning we stopped briefly in Elliston before continuing towards Coffin Bay intending to camp in the nearby National Park.    The drive from Elliston to Coffin Bay was interesting and scenic while noticing quite a transformation in topography and vegetation about fifty kilometres from Coffin Bay going from essentially flat semi-arid land with little or no vegetation to hills, lakes and relatively fertile paddocks interspersed with an abundance of trees.

          Nearing Coffin Bay it was becoming a concern from the amount of traffic that camping in the Coffin Bay National Park may not be an option.   With a quick scan on our GPS for available camping sites we turned off at Wangary twenty kilometres short of Coffin Bay making our way to Farm Beach via ten kilometres of dirt road.   Based on the premise that the majority of travellers avoid dirt roads we were fairly sure of locating an uncrowded camping area; that theory went out the door when cresting a rise near our destination sighting thirty plus RV’s camped.

          With that we backtracked to Mount Dutton Bay with its deserted camping area within metres of the water and next to an historically listed stone woolshed cum café cum art gallery cum museum that also offered the use of showers, toilets plus barbeque facilities if required.

          Being the only campers we were somewhat chuffed with our selection.   Having settled in we adjourned into the woolshed for coffee and cheesecake topped with fresh berries and a liberal helping of cream.   Returning to our van after our indulgence we found three other campers had arrived with, much to our dismay, their yapping miniature dogs.

          Following a peaceful night’s sleep fortunately uninterrupted by our neighbourly canine friends it was into Port Lincoln to collect our mail, restock our scripts (gee getting old is so much fun), plus some serious shopping as our food supplies were all but exhausted.   Surprisingly Port Lincoln was quite crowded as unknown to us it was the venue for a National Rotary gathering.   With shopping completed we went for a walk out onto the towns’ jetty where lo and behold some European visitors were, as chilly as it was and with water temperatures just as brisk, having a leisurely swim in the shark proof enclosure.

          Saturday was a day allocated to exploration.   Leaving Mount Dutton we retraced our steps to Farm Beach in search of Gallipoli Beach however failed as the track had become overgrown and didn’t particularly want any additional scratches on the vehicle.   By the same token there were some outstanding views across towards Coffin Bay including heavens knows how many 4WD’s complete with boat trailers parked on the beach.

          Incidentally Gallipoli Beach obtained its name as a result of being the movie set for the film by the same name.

          From Farm Beach we followed the dirt coastal roads north via Frenchman and Coles Point stopping from time to time taking in the views.   Then it was back to Coffin Bay for a quick recce of the National Park confirming we made the correct decision not to camp there.   That aside, the scenery within the National Park is quite pretty.

          As for Coffin Bay, the last time we were here it was a sleepy fishing village where it was possible to purchase fresh Lobsters and Oysters from a co-operative run shack on the waterfront.   Not any more, it’s no longer the sleepy little fishing village with the fishing shacks having been replaced by rather upmarket residences, holiday homes and apartments.   Needless to say we found ourselves a fish and chip shop where Leigh had oysters plus fish and chips while I indulged in a Prawn Wrap plus helped Leigh consume his oversupply of chips.

          Late Sunday morning we eventually departed Mount Dutton, travelled a short distance down the highway before turning inland towards Cummins.   We were quite surprised at the amount of foliage and how green it was between the coast and Cummins however we did read earlier that this portion of the Eyre Peninsula receives in the order of 500mm of rain annually mainly during the winter months.   Road conditions were ideal being flat with no traffic, just what the doctor ordered.

          Arriving Cummins we had a quick stop followed by a tour of the town then turned east towards the coast.   Again road conditions from Cummins to Tumby Bay continued to be excellent however it did involve a gradual climb that was hardly noticeable.   Just short of Tumby we crested the ranges and were privy to magnificent views across Spencer Gulf to the hill on the York Peninsula possibly some one hundred kilometres away.

          Pulling into Tumby Bay off the main road we stopped at a foreshore park, had a coffee, did a spot of sightseeing and then continuing on our way to Port Neill, a very sleepy fishing village where unless you’re a fishing tragic I would suggest there isn’t too much else to occupy your time.   From Port Neill we continued following the coastline our next stop being Port Arno and home to “Clean Seas” Seafood’s, a major aquaculture enterprise pioneered by Hagen Stehr specializing in Yellow Fin Tuna, Yellowtail Kingfish and Mulloway.

          By now it was time to start looking for a camping spot and after several false starts eventually located a beautiful deserted spot on the edge of the cliffs at Port Gibbon with uninterrupted views along the coastline; we were later joined by a group of backpackers obvious afraid of being attacked by marauding kangaroos or “drop bears”.   Needless to say they were well behaved and polite as most backpackers are.

          Awaking bright and early Monday morning we bade farewell to the backpackers who were busily cooking their breakfast and made our way into nearby Cowell via the dirt coastal road where we’d decided to have breakfast.

          Cowell is possibly the prettiest town on the Eyre Peninsula having not lost its charm or character inherited from when it was first established in the mid 1800’s.   Most buildings in the township are the original stone structures and are by and large well maintained.

          Following breakfast and a wander around town we continued north following the coastline to Whyalla where we had to refuel.   Finding an easily accessible servo in Whyalla is quite an exercise however we eventually located an automatic truck refilling station on the northern outskirts of town where after repeatedly following the operating instructions we gave up in disgust and went in search of another servo that may be accessible.   Only problem was Leigh forgot to replace the fuel caps at the automatic station.    Several hours and four auto-parts suppliers later including a visit to the local Nissan dealership who wanted $80 each, we eventually obtained two at $20 each.

          With Leigh now suffering a major case of “sense of humour failure” we left Whyalla and went in search of a camping spot at nearby Fitzgerald Bay.   The drive in was quite civilized, the views across Spencer Gulf to the Southern Flinders Ranges fantastic, and the camping area was crowded.   Mumbling to himself Leigh continued to follow the foreshore another couple of kilometres, found a track in and a deserted spot on the foreshore; his blood pressure eventually returned to normal.

          Having regained his sense of humour we left Fitzgerald Bay ensuring the drain cocks were open on our water tanks ridding ourselves of the last of the bore, first stop of the day was Port Augusta refilling all three tanks with palatable water.   From Port Augusta we continued south along the eastern side of Spencer Gulf eventually stopping at a foreshow park at Port Germein with views across to Port Pirie for a coffee before continuing on our way towards Burra.

          Turning inland at Port Pirie we stopped at Crystal Brook visiting a local bakery we’d frequented previously for an afternoon caffeine fix.   Eventually leaving Crystal Brook after Mita paid a visit to a local butchery resulting from her taking a fancy to some items on their advertising billboard we continued east however as it was now late afternoon and we were still some seventy kilometres short of the days intended destination decided to camp in the local showgrounds at the all but deserted community of Gulnare and “do” dinner at the local pub.

          With an abundant supply of untainted water now available, the very first thing Mita did was to shampoo her hair – happy wife, happy life.

          Our next stop after Gulnare was Burra, an old copper mining town first established in the mid 1840’s that, during its peak, produced 89% of South Australia’s and 5% of the world’s copper.   This historic town with its abundance of historic sites including underground breweries, goals, miner’s caves in the side of hills, smelter works, is now primarily a pastoral centre with tourism providing much needed additional income for local businesses.

          Leaving Burra we continued east with the landform changing quite dramatically from semi-rural into absolute desert complete with sand dunes, the only discernible vegetation being saltbush eventually arriving at the river town of Morgan located on the banks of the Murray River.   In the mid to late 1800’s, Morgan with its large wharf complex and rail line providing six passenger trains per day to Adelaide was the second busiest port in South Australia however nowadays it is only a former shadow of its past, the primary activity now being tourism with the emphasis on house boats of which there are literally dozens moored along the river banks.

          Once again we crossed the River Murray on a river punt then went in search of the Cadell Sports Ground arriving at our destination a short time later.   Greeted by husband and wife caretaker (Margaret and Michael) we were shown our site complete with power and water, given a personalized tour of the facilities including showers, toilets, laundry, dump point, wash bay, camp kitchen plus more, the cleanliness of all would put most caravan parks to shame however the best thing of all was there were only eight sites in the entire complex.

          Our initial intention was to stay for one night however with the onset of the Easter holiday period and a noticeable increase in traffic however after being informed the Cadell Harvest Festival was being held on Saturday with a variety of events including amongst things the Murray River Giant Pumpkin Competition, Carp Tossing, Cockroach Racing, Market Stalls, Wine Tasting, plus additional entertainment for one and all, we decided Cadell would be the ideal location to “hunker down” til the cessation of the Easter break being fairly certain that most camping area would be overflowing with Easter holiday makers.

          We spent our days at Cadell touring the area, dining out at the local sports club, plus enjoying the festivities at the Harvest Festival

          With the Easter holiday break over we departed Cadell heading for home visiting friends at Timboon, Melbourne and Griffith eventually arriving home about two weeks later.