With the mail having been collected, bills paid, scripts replenished, and the van re-stocked with food, wine and water, we departed Kununurra Wednesday morning with our first destination being the much publicised one million acre El Questro station. Fifty kilometres west of Kununurra we turned onto the Gibb River Road (GRR) heralding the start of approximately 900 kilometres plus of driving on a dirt road vaunted as not only being the destroyer of many a vehicle but that also supposedly provides access to some of the most beautiful scenery in this part of the world.
After travelling only a relatively short distance on the GRR our first stop was Emma Gorge, a part of El Questro station. Paying $35 for a supposed wilderness park permit that allowed us unlimited access to the entire El Questro complex for the next seven days we donned our hiking shoes to tackle the one and half kilometre walk rated as difficult.
The return trek to Emma Gorge was exhausting work with virtually the entire walk being either on rough rocky surfaces, clamouring over boulders or scaling inclines; the walk took Mita and I in excess of two hours to complete. When we eventually arrived at the end of the gorge we were greeted with a beautiful cascading waterfall surrounded by moss lined walls of the canyon AND a swimming hole that we just had to enjoy since by then our clothes were totally saturated with sweat. With Leigh being the first strip down to his swimmers he headed for the pool for a refreshing swim – refreshing was right, it was FREEEEEZING. Needless to say Leigh still braved the waters while Mita managed to get her calves wet.
Eventually returning to the Emma Gorge Lodge complex absolutely exhausted, Mita headed to the van to change out of her hiking boots while Leigh was tasked with organizing milk shakes. Feeling somewhat refreshed after the milk shakes we continued on our way to the El Questro complex arriving mid afternoon. After surveying various camping facilities available we settled on a lovely shaded spot next to a tributary of the Pentecost River, unhitched, and then sat on our bums for the rest of the afternoon as we were totally exhausted from the Emma Gorge walk.
Thursday morning we got up bright and early and headed for Zebedee Springs after being warned it was a popular destination and to get there early. Arriving at the car park around 06.30am it was a short hike to the springs, a hike that also involved avoiding getting trampled by a couple of stray steers that after meeting us on the path went rampaging into the bush - don’t know who got the biggest fright, them or us. There was only one other couple at the springs when we arrived and it was indeed a beautiful location with a thermal spring tumbling down through the boulders feeding a series of pools. After doing all the usual ‘touristy’ things, we found ourselves a cosy little thermal fed pool and there we sat for the next thirty minutes with the water at a constant 32C.
Returning to the van after our relaxing natural spa we got changed and following a brief discussion decided that there was going to be no bush walking for the next few days, especially walks involving clamouring over rocks, climbing, or any deviation away from walking on a flat surface. With that in mind we opted instead to go on some 4WD trails and enjoy the scenery the easy way. First was the Saddleback Ridge lookout, accessed by a track rated as difficult and recommended for only the experienced. After forging a river and climbing a rather steep hill with some sharp turns we reached the summit and were privy to some great views over the El Questro complex and the nearby ranges. Next on the list was the Pigeon Hole lookout with views along the Pentecost River and the distant Cockburn Ranges. From there it was over to Chamberlain Gorge via the supposedly exclusive El Questro homestead (at $1,100 a night it would want to be) that we had every intention of having a sneak look at but were greeted with fairly obviously signs of “Private – Keep Out” consequently our curiosity regarding the homestead remains unsatisfied. While Chamberlain was indeed a lovely gorge it was somewhat ordinary after what we had viewed along the Kimberley coast during our cruise on the “Matrix”.
Last but not least it was the turn of Bronco Lookout. While Saddleback Ridge was rated as difficult, Bronco Lookout had no rating which was surprising because it was one heck of a drive involving a bone jarring 350 metre crossing of the Chamberlain River with at times the vehicle bottoming out on rocks and boulders, and just to add a touch more excitement a very steep climb to the lookout with the track up the hill having being crisscrossed with washaways. Still the views from the top were outstanding.
Overall we were not overly impressed with El Questro sharing the opinion of many that while there is some lovely scenery to be viewed it is overrated and over priced however it was a destination on our “to do list”. To give you an idea, it cost us $110 for two nights camping on an un-powered site with the only facilities available for the entire camping area being located 200 metres away near the general store.
Leaving El Questro for nearby Home Valley Station on Friday morning we rejoined the GRR with the road conditions up to now being as expected for this region, stones, corrugation, and lots of bull dust. After forging the two hundred metre wide Pentecost River we encountered one of the numerous post ‘wet season’ road maintenance gangs in the process of grading the entire GRR and as is usual practice the roads was well watered hence we spent the next five kilometres slipping and sliding in red mud until we eventually caught up to the caravan of graders, rollers and water tankers that had come to a grinding halt since a major piece of machinery had broken down smack bang in the middle of the road successfully stopping all road work – the conversations on the UHF between the various machine operators and the mechanics were quite enlightening.
With the colourful banter between the various parties in full swing on the UHF, we sat there surrounded by heavy machinery until one of the operators eventually directing us off-road to circumvent the shambles. Negotiating our way over piles of dirt, around boulders and rocks, and through two metre high long grass we continued on our way meandering through the Cockburn Ranges eventually arriving at Home Valley Station late morning after a very scenic and sometimes interesting drive.
Home Valley was quite a surprise and albeit a bit on the expensive side the accommodation and facilities were far superior to those on offer at El Questro. There are five levels of accommodation available ranging from luxury down to bush camping sites, and to be frank if we had been aware of the last option we would have opted for it. Complimenting the accommodation were excellent facilities including a resort style swimming pool complex, an outdoor rustic bar, outdoor restaurant, and off course the mandatory souvenir shop. As for the camp grounds, they were situated on the banks of the Pentecost River with unbelievable views over the river towards the nearby Cockburn Ranges and had all basic facilities necessary including an abundance of shaded picnic shelters complete with tables and chairs.
Unhitching the van we went exploring discovering much to our delight that we had phone reception at one of the nearby lookout. With Mita on the phone to daughter Sondra and Leigh on the laptop down loading emails it must have been quite a sight for a 4WD tourist bus full of young foreign backpackers who pulled in to view the panorama.
Home Valley is also an Aboriginal training centre affiliated to the Kimberley TAFE College and offers courses ranging from not only those orientated towards the pastoral industry but also in mechanical repairs, operating heavy machinery and hospitality. Dinner that night in the homestead restaurant was outstanding; we each had a porterhouse steak, locally produced, killed and prepared on the premises and accompanied by a bottle of Pinot Noir out of the Tamar Valley, Tasmania. Entertainment was provided by an Aboriginal country and western group who were quite good.
Since road conditions for the next leg of our trip were very much unknown, we decided on an early start Saturday morning as our next planned destination was Mount Elizabeth Homestead two hundred kilometres further west. As it turned out it was a wise move as the first forty kilometres of road after leaving HV were pretty ordinary with our speed being limited to approximately 35kph however this was compensated for by the outstanding scenery. After forging the Durack River (which was quite an interesting exercise) the road gradually improved allowing us to reach the occasional break neck speed of 60kph while at the same time remaining alert for the inevitable washaways.
After stopping for lunch at the Kalumburu intersection we continuing on our way with the road conditions for the next twenty kilometres deteriorating quite dramatically limiting our speed to 30kph however the conditions eventually improved and before long found ourselves motoring along at a comfortable 70kph coming to the occasional grinding halt to negotiate the occasional washaway or floodway that seemed to appear out of nowhere.
After a six hour drive we arrived mid afternoon at the Mount Elizabeth Homestead located thirty kilometres off the GRR and were disappointed with what greeted us; the entire setup was pretty damn ordinary and yet they were charging premium prices. They had little in the way of amenities or facilities and what was there was sub-standard. There was supposedly a couple of drives to nearby gorges that we had contemplated tackling however when questioned about them the information provided in response was pretty scarce.
Leaving Mount Elizabeth Homestead feeling somewhat cheated after reading the tourism “blurb” our next first stop was the Barnett River Gorge. Unhitching a kilometre or so of the road and out of sight of any passers by, we continued in on a bush track arriving at a small but fairly non-descript gorge. While at the gorge we got talking to a couple from Capel Vale near Perth who advised that they believed the diesel pumps at the nearby Mt Barnett roadhouse were inoperative; this wasn’t pleasing information since we were running low on fuel and Mt Barnett was our planned refuelling stop. Sure enough arriving at the Mt Barnett roadhouse one pump was out of order and the remaining one refused to operate when I attempted to refuel the vehicle. With the nozzle still in the tank and hoping for the best, the owner eventually got a faulty pump running while all the time explaining that it would be another week before replacement computer chips arrived for both bowsers – phew. Oh and at $2.17 per litre it definitely wasn’t cheap but then when you’re out in the middle of the Kimberley there aren’t too many options available
Thanking our lucky stars, next stop just down the road Galvans Gorge and what a pretty little oasis that was. While it was rated safe for swimming, since there was no one else in there Mita and I decided that we weren’t going to take a chance as much as we would have dearly loved the opportunity.
From Galvans Gorge we then went in search of Adcock Gorge and albeit unhitching van then driving over some pretty rugged terrain in search of the gorge we couldn’t find it; it later transpired after exchanging information with another couple if we had gone another three hundred metres along the track we would have found it.
Returning to the main road we continued west to the turnoff for the day’s final destination, Charnley River Station forty two kilometres off the GRR. The drive into the station took one and half hours and involved driving up old river beds, crossing rivers and creeks, negotiating our way where we thought the track should be until we eventually arrived at the Station’s main gate while at the time wondering where the heck we were going to end up or if Charnley River Station actually existed.
Eventually arriving at the homestead proper late afternoon we were greeted by the managers and after a brief discussion about our trip accompanied by much hilarity we were given maps of the local area, a rundown of sights to see including Grevillea Gorge, and an invitation to return to the homestead for drinks that evening – how’s that for hospitality. After been given instructions of how to get to the nearby camping area we arrived and much to our surprise found six other campers, all amazed at the sight of our Bushtracker.
And as for the camp grounds, while the amenities weren’t world class they were more than acceptable with fresh water available throughout the camping area, heaps of fireplaces with fire wood provided, a safe swimming hole complete with canoes and it’s definitely kid friendly with cows, chooks, peacocks, etc wandering around.
We returned to the homestead Monday morning for some final instructions on how to get to nearby Grevillea Gorge before tackling the thirty four kilometre track. It took us nearly two hours to negotiation the track and on several occasions we considered abandoning the trip however bearing in mind what the other campers had said about the gorge we persevered and weren’t we glad we did. The gorge was absolutely beautiful with its colourful rock walls complimented by a waterfall tumbling into the gorge that was a mini version of the Kings Cascades located on the Prince Regent River. Mita and I spent several hours there, enjoying the scenery, sitting under the falls, having a swim, and exploring the surrounds.
Tuesday morning arrived and by 08.00 the other campers were making preparations to leave which just suited us fine as that would mean we would be the only campers at the station. Following an unhealthy breakfast of sausages, egg and tomato cooked by the master chef on the BBQ we decided to extend our stay by another day. With that earth shattering decision having been made, it was off in search of Donkey Springs that we had been informed were quite lovely and peaceful.
While it was only eight kilometres away, with the road and track conditions we had encountered of late we planned on a thirty minute trip; ok so this track was halfway decent and it only took fifteen minutes. Parking beside a shady tree we went in search of the third lagoon as per our instructions from station managers and following a brisk twenty minute hike arrived to find a pretty little billabong with a spring fed waterfall just waiting for us.
Next morning we opted for an early departure tackling the one and half hour drive out to the GRR eventually joining the main road around 10.00 and then heading for Bell Gorge in the King Leopold National Park stopping en-route at the Imintji Aboriginal Community store to top up our fuel.
Arriving at Bell’s Gorge campground we hurriedly got ourselves organized, donned our hiking shoes and then made our way to the Gorge proper to view the waterfalls and scenery. Following an arduous one hour hike down into the gorge again clamouring over rocks and having to twice rock hop over a stream we arrived at the main features, a stepped waterfall tumbling into a canyon below. While enjoying the view and watching the various people way down below swimming at the base of the waterfalls it was at that point in time that Mita and I decided we’d had our share of climbing up and down hills, over rocks and boulders, or wading through steams and hence weren’t going to continue on down to the bottom for a swim; we ‘were over’ bushwalking.
After a peaceful nights sleep it was on towards our final destination along the GRR, Windjana Gorge located in the Napier Ranges. Rejoining the GRR we meandered through the King Leopold and Napier Ranges stopping at several locations and look-outs to enjoy the views including Queen Victoria Head, a geological oddity that from afar bares a striking resemblance of the late English monarch.
Forging the Lennard River we again came across another excentric who had set up a road side stall overlooking the Lennard River selling ice creams and coffee’s; we couldn’t resist the temptation and just had to go in for an ice-cream. Actually he was quite well set up with photo albums of various floods etc on display and a telescope set up in a pretty garden setting complete with tables and chairs allowing people to view the freshwater crocodiles below while enjoying their refreshments.
Eventually turning off the GRR we arrived at Windjana after traversing some very badly corrugated roads and after settling into the camping area set off on a two hour return hike up the Windjana Gorge. The Windjana Gorge located in the Napier Ranges forms part of a massive reef system that extends out into the Buccaneer and Bonaparte Archipelago continuing up the Kimberley coast and reappearing near Kununurra. The scenery within the gorge with the various views being enhanced by the kaleidoscope of colours in the surrounding mountains making for numerous outstanding photo opportunities; one thing that we did notice while in the gorge was abundance of freshwater crocodiles totally oblivious to the human intrusion into their domain. And for a change we didn’t have to clamour over boulders, climb up hills, or wade through water; instead we spent two hours trudging through bull dust needless to say the first thing we did when we got back to the van was to have a shower and change into clean clothes.
We departed Windjana Friday morning tackling the last one hundred and forty five kilometres of dirt road rejoining the Great Northern Highway just west of Fitzroy Crossing and BITUMEN. In total we have driven just over 1000 kilometres on dirt roads.
Refuelling at Fitzroy Crossing we headed back to Kununurra six hundred and fifty kilometres east deciding to scrap our plans of cutting across the desert from Halls Creek to Daly Waters via Top Springs mainly because we have had enough of driving on corrugated roads covered in bull dust.
No comments:
Post a Comment