We were collected from the Discovery Caravan Park in Kununurra mid afternoon and driven to Wyndham to join the “Matrix” for our thirteen day cruise through the Kimberley region. The “Matrix” is a 24 metre (80 foot) luxury catamaran that can accommodate twelve people in six suites. While it has a top speed of 40kph the majority of the cruise was conducted at a leisurely 18kph.
We boarded the boat at approximately 14.00 hours being greeted with complimentary drinks. After introductions to the crew, the obligatory safety lecture and the “do’s and don’t”, we were shown to our cabins. It was now that we were starting to realize why the “Matrix” has such a wonderful reputation – its sheer 5 star luxury. The 4 staterooms, of which ours was one, have every conceivable convenience available. After unpacking we returned to the aft deck joining the others for pre dinner drinks and snacks.
As we got underway, Pete Taylor the skipper rejoined us for drinks and expanded on what to expect from the crew and the intended itinerary.
Pete (all 6’ 8” of him) has been a tour ship master in the Kimberley for ten years; prior to the Kimberley’s he captained prawn trawlers in the Gulf of Carpentaria. Pete’s forte besides being the ‘Skipper’ was his intense interest in the history of the Kimberley, its people and Aboriginal art.
Second in charge and the engineer was Damien who also has an environmental degree hence whenever we went ashore on excursions he accompanied Pete answering the environmental questions.
The chef was Luke. Luke rotates with another chef from the “Chez Pierre” restaurant in Perth. His meals were a culinary delight with the “girls” regularly harassing him for tips and information.
Bec was our hostess for the cruise ensuring that our every need was catered for, that our cabins (or should I say suites) were serviced, what our likes and dislikes were, what our preferred drinks were when it came to pre dinner drinks, etc etc.
Last but not least was 26 year old Ben who was the ‘deck hand’; Ben is also a professional pearl diver during the four month pearl season.
Following pre dinner drinks and hors d’oeurve we were ushered into the dining room by Bec and had our first sampling of Luke’s gourmet cooking. We were told it was “to die for” but I think we all thought it was the usual self indulgent hype that commonly occurs however they weren’t understating his skills, it was magnificent. With the presentation of each and every course throughout the entire cruise Luke always gave a detailed explanation of the ingredients, preparation and cooking process.
Departing Wyndham around 17.00 we steamed all night arriving at Koolama Bay at dawn, our first destination for the day. Following a light breakfast we boarded the tenders and went ashore to inspect a small waterfall plus inspect the sight where the passengers and crew of the SS Koolama made camp until their rescue in 1942 after the ship was bombed by the Japanese; incidentally this was the first hostility towards Australia by the Japanese during WW11.
Next on the agenda was a climb to the top of the canyon walls and then a hike to the falls to enjoy the vista and a swim in the rock pools. The climb up the escarpment was something else; it was essentially a 60 degree climb that required us to clamber from boulder to boulder while using trees, tree branches or rocks for leverage. The one kilometre hike including the climb took in excess of 1 ½ hours however the views of the gorge were well worth the effort…….I think.
Returning to “Matrix”, first order of business was a couple of cold beers to re-hydrate, followed by a shower, then a late lunch while boat got under way for the Drysdale River where we would be staying overnight. With a quiet afternoon ahead we joined the others in the lounge generally chatting, reading, and enjoying the passing views from the picture windows.
On the morning of the 20th we awoke anchored next to a beautiful beach with views across the bay towards the Drysdale River, a perfect setting for a cooked breakfast that was served on the rear sun deck. Following breakfast, it was into the tenders for our first fishing trip and it didn’t take us long before we were reeling in the fish while being stalked by a three metre croc.
While we thought the fish were huuuugggge they were being thrown back in the water with the usual comments of “they’re rubbish” or “to small”; by the end of the fishing trip Leigh had three and Mita one sizable Mangrove Jacks, a much sought after fish that is an absolute delicacy.
Following a couple of hours of fishing it was back to the boat to don our swimming gear before reboarding the tenders for a run up the Drysdale River to a natural rock barrage where the fresh and salt waters eventually meet, passing en-route “Crazy Charlie’s” house. “Crazy Charlie” is reputedly a stock broker who has turned his back on civilization and now lives in the wilderness with his indigenous wife and son in a shack surrounded by a variety of satellite dishes, solar panels, etc. Eventually arriving at the barrage after navigating the rapids we some spent time enjoying the scenery, swimming in the pools out of danger of sharks and crocs, and enjoyed a coffee prepared by the crew over an open fire.
We returned to the “Matrix” in time for lunch which was then followed by another fishing trip however Mita and I decided not to participate since we'd had a successful morning of fishing. After a relaxing afternoon we joined the others for pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeurve while at the same time watched the spectacle of Bronze Whaler Sharks, Black Tipped Reef Sharks, and Hammerhead Shark circle the boat and occasionally charging in to feed on fish carcasses thrown into the water by the crew as they cleaned the days catch. Today was a great insight to how dangerous the Kimberley region is and why one of the first safety lectures given stressed not to take any risks near waterways.
With us passengers still enjoying our wine prior to dinner the “Matrix” got underway for our next overnight destination at Vansittart Bay anchoring near the once top secret WW11 Truscott airfield, an airfield that the Japanese spent years trying to locate; Truscott is now used by Rio Tinto to service their oil and mining interests in the region.
Monday morning we again boarded the tenders landing at a nearby beach to inspect some ancient “Bradshaw” Art. This art form is a major mystery and the examples we views are dated at between 27,000 years old and 30,000 years old thus predating any known Aboriginal art forms. There are two significant differences between traditional Aboriginal art and “Bradshaw” art, the differences primarily being that “Bradshaw” art has been applied by the use of tools and that the materials utilized are organic whereas Aboriginal art was applied by manual means (i.e. finger painting) and the colouring is mineral based. Of course the mystery doesn’t end there as there are also two forms of “Bradshaw” art with the other form having been dated at 37,000 years old.
The major thing noticeable to the untrained eye about “Bradshaw” art is its definition and quality. And just to add confusion to the discussion regarding “Bradshaw” art, the subject people are wearing a form of clothing and headwear. The differences between “Bradshaw” and traditional Aboriginal art are quite dramatic.
Following a refreshing swim at the beach (with lookouts posted) we then returned to the boat for morning tea before once again going ashore to inspect an old WW11 C47 (DC3) that ran out of fuel while on a familiarization flight crash landing just short of the Truscott runway; the aircraft was subsequently cannibalized however sixty five plus years after the event it is still in remarkable condition with little corrosion evident.
Returning to the boat in time for lunch “Matrix” made its way to our next destination, Freshwater Bay the second largest pearl farm operated by the Paspaley group, the worlds leading producer of cultured pearls. Having Ben onboard who has worked as a pearl diver was a wonderful opportunity to be provided an up close and personal insight into the cultivation of pearls. We spent some time anchored next to a cultivation platform with Ben immediately pulling up one of the cultivation racks and then spending the next 10 minutes explaining the intricacies of pearl cultivation from start to finish.
After the very informative visit to the pearl farm we returned to the boat, got changed, and then went in search of oysters. Returning from the oyster hunting expedition everyone had a shower, changed into clean clothes, and returned to the rear sun deck to watch five large tawny nurse sharks constantly circle the boat. Although for all intents and purposes looking like a man eating, they are in fact bottom feeders and quite harmless. To prove the point Pete (the skipper) coaxed them up to the rear boarding platform where he started hand feeding them and patting them. Having been coaxed up, those who were up on the deck also took turns in hand feeding them and patting them.
And that evening with our pre-dinner drinks, it was fresh oysters prepared and served in a variety of ways.
At 01.30 we were awakened by the ships anchor being raised as the “Matrix” got underway for the Admiralty Gulf but soon lapsed back into a deep sleep however that came to an abrupt end at 06.00 when we were once again woken by the melodious sound (NOT) of the anchor chain being dropped at La Fontaine Island. Following breakfast we boarded the tenders for a scenic tour around the various islands; this region isn’t dissimilar to the Milne Bay region of New Guinea with the exception that in Milne Bay the islands are coral and sand while in the Admiralty Gulf they are essentially sandstone.
With sightseeing completed it was off to do some more fishing with Mita catching, much to her horror, a Black Tipped Reef Shark. In her defence I have to add that’s all anyone else caught – they're a damned nuisance.
With fishing a failure and no more sightseeing to be done, the “Matrix” weighed anchor and made its way to Prudhoe Island at the tip of Bigge Island in Montague Sound were we spent the night.
The morning of the 23rd we again weighed anchor and headed for the first stop of the day, an Aboriginal art and sacred site belonging to the Kira People located on a secluded beach at the northern tip of Bigge Island. Disembarking from the tenders we trudged up the beach and entered the various caves inspecting the exquisite 350 year old artwork depicting Dutch exploration that included sailing ships, long boat landings, and the individuals themselves.
Returning to the “Matrix” our next destination was the southern tip of Bigge Island stopping briefly for morning tea in a little clump of rainforest, quite an anomaly in this part of the world considering the landform is not conducive to that type of vegetation. While there, the opportunity arose to inspect another form of “Bradford” art with this example being dated at 37000 years old.
We again reboarded “Matrix” and moved to Fullmoon Bay near Prince Frederick Harbour, and this time it was “Boys versus Girls” with Pete taking all the girls in his boat while Damien took us guys. Threading our way up the narrow waterways we settled down to some serious fishing while much bantering occurred regarding each others fishing abilities; the end result was nine Mangrove Jacks each hence the competition was declared a draw. We eventually got back to the mother ship around 1900 in the pitch black after being marooned for three hours (someone had miscalculated the tide) only to discover much to Pete’s disgust that another cruise ship had anchored within 200 metres; bloody amazing, a whole bay to anchor in and they park next to us.
With Pete fuming at the embarrassment of being marooned plus the intrusion of another cruise boat anchoring so close, “Matrix” weighed anchor and set sail for nearby Hunter River while we, now clean and refreshed imbibed in Margaret River wines while enjoying another scrumptious meal compliments of Luke.
Friday morning we awoke to yet another glorious morning and an amazing vista, plus a reminder that the Kimberley is quite possibly one of the most dangerous places on planet earth with three crocodiles and a school of sharks swimming around the boat; this is not a place to put your hands in the water to give them a rinse. By the same token, this location was absolutely beautiful.
With breakfast out of the way first task was to set the crab pots followed by a hike to the top of a nearby gorge; Leigh opted to pass on that activity as the degree of difficulty was deemed extreme however Mita decided to go on the hike. At the end of the hike they were greeted by a spectacular waterfall concealed at the gorge ending and the opportunity to have a swim at the end of the challenging climb.
With another fishing trip on offer in the afternoon, this time in search of Barramundi we decided to try our luck at lure fishing but came back empty handed; only one Barramundi was caught, that being an 85cm specimen. However we definitely had more success with the mud crabs with a total of eighteen being snared; that evening our pre-dinner drinks was with freshly cooked mud crabs.
With the dawning of the 25th and feeling a little slow after the previous nights activities, we got underway around 07.00 while having breakfast and moved to Naturaliste Island at the mouth of the Hunter River to collect two additional passengers being flown in by helicopter from the nearby Mitchell Plateau. With the offer to take a one hour scenic flight at a vastly discounted price over the Hunter River, Mitchell Plateau and the Mitchell Falls, Mita and I jumped at the opportunity and can say we didn’t regret the decision.
Returning from the helicopter flight we rejoined the “Matrix” and setting sail for the Prince Regent River located in the St George Basin with our second stop of the day being Port Nelson to visit the Mermaid Tree so named after HMC Mermaid that was being captained by Phillip Parker King and was careened on the beach in 1820 for six weeks to enable repairs. The tree is a giant Boab tree said to be 500 years old with the date of the event and name of the ship carved into the trunk hence the name “The Mermaid Tree”. From the Mermaid Tree we continued on our way stopping near Cape Brewster for some more fishing followed by pre-dinner drinks and dinner while watching a magnificent sunset. We eventually arrived in the mouth of the Prince Regent River late that night.
The morning of the 26th we awoke to another beautiful day with splendid views across the St George Basin. While having a cup of tea before setting of on an early morning fishing expedition, we watched in amazement as Ben donned his diving gear before dropping over the side of the boat to release the anchor cable from one of the propellers that had become accidentally ensnared the previous evening. With that bit of early morning excitement out of the way we piled into the tenders for some serious fishing in the glassy waters of the St George Basin; Leigh came back empty handed, Mita landed a 50cm Cod.
Returning in time for breakfast, “Matrix” got underway making its way fifty five kilometres up the Prince Regent River to view the King Cascades while at the same time being privy to some amazing scenery. Arriving at the Cascades late morning Pete nosed the “Matrix” under the waterfalls while the crew armed with our cameras took photographs of the event from a variety of vantage points plus from the tenders.
Anchored mid stream, we boarded the tenders making our way to a ledge on the escarpment where we disembarked and clambered up to safety after being warned in no uncertain circumstances not to linger as there were crocodiles in the area. Clambering up the escarpment and following a brief walk along a bush track we eventually arrived at another set of cascades intermingled with pools. After rappelling down a small cliff to gain access to this little oasis, we spend a considerable amount of time swimming in the pools, sitting under the waterfalls, and generally enjoying the ambience of the moment.
The ‘King Cascades’ was the scene of a tragedy some years ago when a group of young Americans ignored the dangers of region by diving of the ledges under the waterfalls. One of them climbed up to the top of the falls sighting a crocodile making it towards the two girls on the lower ledge who were still diving off the ledge and albeit every effort to warn the girls of the impending danger the crocodile took one of the girls. What remained of her body was recovered some days later. From the Kings Cascades we went a couple of kilometres further up river for a brief viewing of the Amphitheatre Waterfalls returning to the boat for lunch while “Matrix” made ready to depart the St George Basin region.
One of the big factors governed our itinerary up here in the Kimberley has been the tides as this region has massive tidal ranges, in some cases the variation is in the order of ten metres. Departing the Prince Regent River to Camden Harbour, “Matrix” headed for the ocean via Munster Waters and Treachery Head, all the while being constantly buffered by the swirling waters and massive eddy’s being generated by the waters of the outgoing eight metre tide; it really was a sight to behold.
Monday morning was another early start with the first activity being oyster collecting on nearby Sheep Island with the intrepid gatherers returning with one hundred eight giant oysters earmarked for the evening’s pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeuvres.
With the food gathering completed, we returned to Sheep Island for a brief history lesson on the attempt to settle this region between 1863 and 1865 but not before the crew reconnoitred the landing area as fresh crocodile tracks were spotted in the vicinity of our intended landing zone. After viewing the gravesites and listening to a brief history of the island we moved over to the nearby mainland to inspect the remnants of the settlement. Of the one hundred and eight people who settled the area only forty survived the two year experiment, and off those forty settlers only eight opted to remain in the region. Reboarding “Matrix” the boat got underway for Deception Bay while we sat on the rear deck tucking into a hearty breakfast and enjoyed the passing scenery.
We arrived at Deception Bay at approximately 11.00 and immediately boarded the tenders to visit Butterfly Valley, so named because of the proliferation of Butterflies. Navigating up a narrow gorge and follow a basic track we arrived at the small valley and while there were some butterflies evident it was disappointing that there was not an abundance of butterflies fluttering around. While we were disappointed, these things can’t be helped and such visits are subject to the vagrancies of the weather and environment at the time.
After a refreshing swim in the spring fed gorge we reboarded “Matrix” to visit Langii, a sacred site of the Kalarri People who believe that this is where the spirits of their warriors go after death. It was quite an eerie location as we viewed row after row of eroded pillars that supposedly represented the spirits of the deceased, and in reality I must say if you used your imagination while viewing the scene you can comprehend the reason for their belief that this site is their “spirit world”.
Leaving Langii, we steamed to our next destination taking in the spectacular scenery sitting on the bow deck while enjoying pre-dinner drinks and consuming the one hundred eight oysters prepared in a variety of way plus king prawns; we eventually arrived at Raft Point around 17.00 anchoring between the mainland and Steep Island at the entrance to Doubtful Bay.
Following a light breakfast it was a strenuous two hour or more return hike half way up the escarpment of Raft Point to view more Aboriginal art. After puffing and panting and thinking “what the heck am I doing here” we arrived at the site and were stunned by the variety and quality of the work; it was outstanding. We spent quite some time viewing the paintings while listening to Pete give an explanation of the how, when, where, and why of the work. We have to say that after viewing Aboriginal art in the Kimberley region Mita and I have definitely gained a greater appreciation of Aboriginal art and the roll it plays in mapping out a historical footprint within the region.
Reboarding “Matrix” we motored across Doubtful Bay to Redcone Creek where we once again boarded the tenders going up to Ruby Falls for an enjoyable swim and morning tea. Arriving at the location the first thing the crew did was to clamour up to the falls and pool to ensure it was crocodile free, a bit of an over precaution we thought since they were ten metres above us. After a thoroughly enjoyable morning it was time to leave since the muddy waters of the incoming tide were now starting to intrude into the lower pools of our little oasis; we now understood why the earlier precaution of checking for crocodiles as the ten metre tide in this area regularly floods the pools hence the occasional visiting crocodile.
We returned for lunch while Matrix steamed over to the mouth of Three Rivers located on the opposite side of Doubtful Bay for another fishing expedition however Mita and I declined the opportunity to fish instead opting to spend the afternoon in the upper deck spa with another passenger while enjoying a quiet wine and admiring the scenery.
Wednesday morning’s tranquillity was shattered with the anchor being raised at 06.00 as we set sail for nearby Montgomery Reef to view the waters cascading from the reef system. The major cause of this natural phenomenon is the outgoing ten metre tides that occur twice a day. Approaching the reef system we at first thought that it appeared to be interlaced with stretches of sandy beaches however we soon realized that it was water cascading off the reef system. Anchoring in “The Crack” (sounds obscene but it's an apt description for the fissure in the reef system) we boarded the tenders motoring further into the system for an up close and personal view of this amazing occurrence.
Our next destination was Croc Creek in the Yampi Sound region, so named by miners from the nearby iron ore mines in an effort to dissuade visitors to this little gem; unfortunately they failed and it is now a favourite destination. Threading our way through the myriad of islands our peaceful existence of the past eleven days was shattered when entering the narrow channel that separates Koolan Island from the mainland we encountered a moored giant bulk ore carrier with two others behemoth ore carriers anchored in the bay awaiting their turn to take on the load of what is believed to be the worlds purest iron ore.
Eventually arriving at Croc Creek we went ashore for a refreshing swim in the spring fed pools above the waterfall before continuing on to Silvergull Creek. Silvergull Creek is an old mining lease and now the home of Phil and Marion, a couple of eccentrics who squatted 15 years ago when the mining company abandoned the area leaving behind only a jetty and three water tanks fed from a natural spring. With the expiration of the lease, the land title reverted back to the Aboriginals however Phil and Marion have permission from the relevant land council to continue their existence. Visiting this couple is evidently quite a privilege as some tour operators and individuals are not welcome however as Pete is evidently one of “the chosen few” we boarded the tenders and motored up stream harbouring a degree of in trepidation as to what to expect.
What awaited us was quite a surprise. Rounding the corner of the creek we sighted a lush oasis with a variety of buildings intermingled amongst the trees. Landing on a rather rickety jetty we made our way up the path lined with a variety of tropical shrubs, bushes, palms and trees, all brought in as juveniles and nurtured to there current state with the entire area being fed by an elaborate network of irrigation pipes. After introductions, an explanation of the facilities, plus the answering of questions about the how, when and why’s, we were free to roam the area. The girls headed for the jewellery shop where Marion had on display a range of hand made trinket, bracelets, ear rings and other assorted items while the guys enjoyed the scenery and then headed for the converted water tank that now acts as a swimming pool.
It certainly was an insight to a different lifestyle of a couple who have turned their backs on civilization.
Thursday morning heralded the last full day of our cruise. Still anchored in Silvergull Creek we had a late breakfast before setting out for Silicone Beach on the tip of Hidden Island via Cockatoo Island thus allowing us to view the massive iron ore facilities plus the mines that are at the waters edge. We arrived at Silicone Beach mid morning spending the first few minutes exploring the environment while the mandatory lookouts were posted to guard against any unwanted visitors, and with lookouts in position it was into the water for a splash while admiring the pure white beach.
Next stop and our last on this voyage was Cape Leveque on the opposite side of King Sound from Hidden Island, and where there was to be a game of beach cricket – crew versus visitors. Having lunch while the boat was underway we eventually arrived at the Cape mid afternoon anchoring about a kilometre offshore. Armed with the appropriate attire we headed to the arena for the friendly cricket game with the crew boasting that in the two years they have been conducting the competition they had only ever been defeated once.
Well it’s now twice.
Our last night on the “Matrix” was a torrid affair starting off with the usual pre-dinner drinks and hors d’oeuvres, followed by another gourmet meal, and then a farewell speech by Pete, duly reciprocated by one of the passengers, all while the boat made its way to Broome.
After saying our goodbyes to our fellow passengers, exchanging personal information, and then paying the bar tab (ouch), we disembarked “Matrix” around 08.30 and were dropped off at the airport. We eventually got back to Kununurra at 14.30 and slept for the next two days.
In summary, Mita and I would definitely recommend this cruise to anyone contemplating doing it. Of course there was the added benefit that we were very fortunate in that our fellow travellers were lovely fun people, with us all sharing common interests.
No comments:
Post a Comment